If you are driving south from Bishkek toward Osh, after crossing the Ala-Bel Pass the road begins descending into the picturesque Chychkan Gorge — the valley of the river of the same name. About halfway down, the Chychkan River is joined by its large right tributary, the Itagar (sometimes spelled It-Agar, a name that can be translated from Kyrgyz as “it will carry a dog away”). The Itagar Valley is remarkably scenic and diverse: here you will find a rushing mountain river, the lake Saz-Köl Lake (“saz” means “swamp”), small groves, magnificent green meadows, and even a waterfall. If you have some spare time, leave the highway and make a stop in the Itagar Valley. Just hold on tightly to your dog! You can stay overnight, for example, at this modern hotel.

The turnoff from the highway into the valley is clearly visible on the map. As is often the case, the dirt road starts in fairly good condition but gradually deteriorates farther from the highway. You can easily reach Saz-Köl Lake and even go a bit farther in almost any car. The next section toward Itagar Retreat Camp is somewhat more difficult: in several places the road crosses shallow streams flowing down from the surrounding mountains. Choose your stopping point according to your vehicle’s capabilities.

The Itagar Valley is broad and gentle, with very little elevation gain, so walking along the river requires little effort. The climb to the waterfall is slightly more challenging and requires basic physical fitness. Even there, however, the terrain remains friendly, with grass and soft ground almost all the way, and only a few rocky sections near the end of the ascent. Please note that as of August 2025 there is no mobile connection in the valley.

On our map, we marked the route assuming you leave your car right by the highway, although, as mentioned above, it is easy — and preferable — to drive at least as far as the lake, since the first section is not especially interesting. Saz-Köl Lake lies on the right side of the road, and a small yurt camp stands on its shore. Farther west, the valley widens, revealing meadows and dense groves stretching along the river. At one bend in the road, you can find a spring on the right where you may refill your drinking water supplies. The dirt road then reaches Itagar Retreat Camp, where there is a café, yurts, and dome tents available for overnight stays. The turnoff to the waterfall trail is marked by a navigation sign. It is difficult to get lost on the ascent: the waterfall is clearly visible from the road, and you can climb while almost constantly keeping it in sight. It is best to visit the waterfall in the first half of the day, since by evening it falls into shadow and becomes slightly less picturesque.